A SLICE OF OLD FLORIDA & SPOONFULS OF COASTAL FLAVOR IN NEW SMYRNA BEACH
- Colleen Thompson
- Apr 3
- 5 min read
Updated: Apr 4
There is something timelessly charming about old Florida, complete with its calming sea foam color palette, palm tree prints and slow twirling ceiling fans - a nostalgia that belongs to another time. These remnants of a simpler, more colorful era are becoming increasingly rare as the Sunshine State transforms, overtaken by cruise ships, towering condos, and cookie-cutter chains that dominate its beachfronts. But there are still pockets that you should add to your Wanderlust list if you want to find your own little slice of nostalgia. New Smyrna Beach is one of those sweet spots.
By Colleen Thompson

Despite its name, New Smyrna Beach is far from new. With roots stretching back to 1768, this historic town in Volusia County is steeped in centuries of fascinating history. It was originally founded as a colonial settlement by Scottish physician Dr Andrew Turnbull, who envisioned it as a thriving hub for European settlers and Mediterranean immigrants. Over time, it became one of Florida's oldest cities and a place where its past and present blend quite seamlessly. From its early days as a modest agricultural settlement, New Smyrna Beach blossomed into a vibrant coastal destination with pristine beaches and a tight-knit community.
Nestled along the Atlantic coast, just south of Daytona Beach, New Smyrna Beach benefits from its prime location and proximity to major Florida attractions like Orlando. With a population of fewer than 35,000, the town offers a laid-back, beach-town atmosphere where residents and visitors enjoy 17 miles of stunning coastline. Ranked among the top twenty beach towns in the world by National Geographic, it's no wonder that New Smyrna Beach is also a surfer's paradise, boasting some of the finest waves on the entire eastern seaboard. New Smyrna Beach is a timeless gem whether you're drawn by its history, beauty, world-class surf, or foodie options. Here are a few favorite picks.

Where to Lay Your Head: The Black Dolphin Inn
When an ancient Banyan tree grows through the side of the inn and wraps its gnarled and twisted body through the balcony, you know it's a special place. The kind of place you want to linger, order a Margarita and cue the Buffet playlist. It's tiny enough to remain under the radar yet so remarkable it leaves an impression that can't stay hidden. The inn is tucked away in a quiet, manicured residential neighbourhood on posh Riverside Drive on the shores of the Indian River. This 1940s-style, Spanish Isle-inspired historic estate, featuring whitewashed stucco walls, a terracotta-tiled roof, curly wrought iron balcony railings, and a walled tropical courtyard, is proudly a member of the Select Registry of Distinguished Inns. There are 14 exclusive guest rooms and suites, each individually and beautifully designed. Guestrooms are luxurious, light and airy, decked out in color palettes of navy, seaweed greens and muted oak with lots of white and pops of color from local art adorning the walls. Bathrooms are sumptuous with soaker tubs, glass mosaic tiling and Aveda bath products. The inn exudes an intimate, charming, and sophisticated ambiance, with loads of attention to detail throughout. It feels like a mix between Old Florida, surfy vibes and a chic friend's beach house. There are several dreamy spaces to kick back and relax. Slow-spinning outdoor ceiling fans keep things comfortable on the porch outside the guest rooms or on the large front veranda, where you can eat breakfast and watch fishing skiffs putter up and down. Idyllic and serene.
Where to Sip & Savor
New Smyrna offers two vibrant main streets that capture the essence of this charming coastal town: Canal Street and Flagler Avenue. At the heart of it all is Flagler Avenue, that spans five blocks from the Atlantic Ocean to the Indian River. This lively avenue pulses with energy, filled with an eclectic mix of restaurants and outdoor bars. Flagler Avenue also hosts a variety of events throughout the year, from chili and chowder cook-offs to festive wine walks.
Just a short distance away, Canal Street offers a more relaxed, yet equally captivating, vibe. Steeped in history, this charming district serves as the cultural heart of New Smyrna, with its blend of boutique shops, art galleries, and cozy eateries. It’s the ideal spot to stroll and immerse yourself in the town’s artistic and laid-back atmosphere. Whether you're seeking excitement or a slower pace, both streets capture the essence of New Smyrna.
Coffee Stop: Canal Street is within walking distance of the Black Dolphin Inn, so take a slow walk up pretty Riverside Drive and stop into Shebeen, a chic coffee and chocolate shop, to kickstart the day.
Where to Lunch: The whimsical Third Wave Café & Wine Bar is an outdoor dining room where you can eat under a canopy of trees. If you're lucky, you'll be greeted by resident rooster Alfonso, who wanders around unphased by busy diners. Order the blackened, fresh, catch-of-the-day fish sandwich with house-made pickles and remoulade on a Hawaiian brioche bun. Pair it with a New Smyrna Beach brewery IPA and soak up the easy-going beach town vibes.
Pre-Dinner Cocktails: When you're travelling, there's something special about visiting a town's local craft brewery or distillery—it's the best way to truly feel the heartbeat of the place. These gems are often run by passionate locals who pour their heart and soul into their craft, and their businesses are deeply woven into the fabric of the community. Sugarworks Distillery in the Canal District is a perfect example. Family-owned and led by Michael Scorsone, this distillery offers a unique glimpse into the art of small-batch spirits. Take a tour, enjoy a tasting, and don't miss trying The Harvest Sour cocktail with Sugarworks brown butter-washed High Rye Bourbon.
Eat Dinner at The Baker's Table: Don't be put off by the nondescript strip mall that houses the restaurant. Accomplished chefs and husband-wife duo Jaime and Jeanette Quintana have created a cosy bistro-style vibe, and the sea foam green color palette is a welcome respite and a little oasis of calm from the busyness of Flagler Avenue. Their menu features classic French picks like escargots in garlic butter with toasted brioche caps, cherry smoked foie gras and beef carpaccio with truffle oil and a restaurant that offers a French 75 on their cocktail menu already has my vote. But their tribute to the region's seafood makes their menu pop. The Key West pink shrimp ceviche is a burst of freshness, flavor and precisely what is needed after a day in the sunshine. For a main, the pan-seared sea scallops with cauliflower puree and vanilla corn cream are done to perfection.
Post-Dinner Stop: Complete the perfect day with a final stop at the elegant and sleek Bar Leona. It's the kind of wine bar every neighbourhood deserves to have. Grab a sidewalk table, sip a Sbagliato, which they do remarkably well, and breathe in the salted Smyrna night air.
Don't Miss: A pair of standout sister art organizations. Jane's Art Center and The Hub on Canal offer an opportunity to witness creativity in motion, featuring
exhibition space and studio spaces. Jane's, founded to honor the life and passions of the local artist and environmentalist Jane Smith, specializes in ceramics and showcases the impressive clay work of local, regional, and national artists. If you've always wanted to sit behind the potter's wheel, Jane's is just the place to get your hands dirty, hosting regular classes for experienced and first time ceramists. Nearby, The Hub showcases a broader artistic scope and serves as an incubator for more than seventy local artists. Both places stand as a testament to the creativity and artistic community in New Smyrna Beach and worth carving out time for.
To plan your trip to New Smyrna Beach start here.
Avelo Airlines flies direct from Wilmington International to Orlando International Airport on Fridays & Mondays.
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